Why Costa Rica?
Costa Rica is a nature-lover’s dream! Nestled between Nicaragua and Panama in Central America, it’s slightly smaller than the state of West Virginia. Despite its small size, Costa Rica contains 5% of all known plant and animal species on Earth, and the country’s strict animal protection laws and comprehensive conservation strategies have made it one of the best ecotourism destinations in the world!
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If you’re still getting your feet wet with international travel, Costa Rica is a great place to start! It’s generally considered one of the safer destinations in Central America, with a well-established tourist infrastructure that makes logistics relatively straightforward. Spanish is the official language, but English is widely spoken in the more touristy areas, so navigating menus, tours, and hotels is rarely a challenge. And getting there from the U.S. is easy with plenty of options from major cities, and 5-6 hour direct flights from the Northeast. Costa Rica is wild enough to feel like an adventure, but comfortable enough not to stress you out too much.
Which Area to Visit?
Costa Rica’s regions are distinct enough that where you go really depends on what you’re after. For this post, we’re focusing on Guanacaste and Arenal, two regions that between them cover active volcanoes, incredible beaches, rainforest waterfalls, and diverse wildlife! Reference the map below to get your bearings on all the highlights mentioned in this post.
Getting There
Depending on which part of Costa Rica you’re visiting, you’ll want to choose between two main airports. Liberia (LIR) is ideal for this itinerary focusing on Guanacaste and Arenal— if you’re planning to visit Tamarindo, Papagayo, or the surrounding beaches, this is the most convenient airport. San José (SJO) is the larger, more central hub with better access to the Central Valley, Caribbean Coast, and Central and South Pacific. Flights to SJO also tend to be a bit cheaper with more flight options. We flew into SJO, but in retrospect for this particular itinerary, we should have chosen LIR – the drive from SJO to Tamarindo is slow going and takes about 5 hours despite not looking that far on a map.
Getting Around
While resort shuttles and airport transfers exist, renting a car is highly recommended — it gives you the freedom to access remote areas, set your own schedule, and make the most of the country.
You drive on the right in Costa Rica, and speed limits are posted in km/hr. As with any international destination, we always recommend looking up common local road signs and markings before you go. A little homework beforehand saves a lot of confusion on the road. It’s also important to know that motorbikes (especially around San José) are everywhere and will ride the center line and pass on the right, so stay alert!
Regarding rental car insurance: a Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) is required by all rental agencies, but you may be able to decline it if you have coverage through your credit card. Request a letter from your credit card company in advance and present it to the rental agency at pickup. We had a great experience renting through Vamos.
Paying for things
Costa Rican currency is some of the most beautiful we’ve ever seen. The official currency is the Costa Rican colón (plural: colones) and the bills have colorful drawings of sloths, monkeys, butterflies, hummingbirds, deer and sharks! In our experience it was easy to withdraw colones from ATMs and banks like Banco Nacional, Banco de Costa Rica, and BAC. You can get cash in the airports, but the exchange rates are worse there. Credit cards are widely accepted (just make sure you’re using one with no foreign transaction fees). The U.S. dollar is accepted in many places, but you’ll generally pay more when using it. Stick to colones where you can.
When to visit?
Costa Rica has two seasons: wet and dry. The dry season (mid-December through April) brings reliable sunshine and is the most popular time to visit, but expect higher prices and more crowds. The rainy season (May through early December) gets more rain, but comes with the perks of cheaper flights and accommodations, far fewer tourists, more lush landscapes, rushing waterfalls, and more active wildlife. We visited in early December at the tail end of the rainy season and only had rain on 2 of 7 days.
The region you’re visiting also plays a role in how much rain you’ll actually experience. Guanacaste tends to be the driest part of the country year-round, making it your best bet if sunshine is a priority.
Wherever you are, rain in Costa Rica tends to come in the afternoons rather than all day. And since Costa Rica sits below the hurricane belt, hurricanes are thankfully one thing you’ll never need to worry about!
How Long to Visit?
If you’re like us and have limited PTO, the duration of your trip might be decided for you, but the good news is that you can still see a lot in just a week. Costa Rica is compact enough that you can pack a lot into a short trip! That said, if you only have a week, we’d recommend choosing no more than two regions to explore so you’re not spending half your trip in the car. For our first visit, we focused on Guanacaste and the Arenal & La Fortuna region, and we felt it was a great introduction to the country. Here are some of the highlights:
Guanacaste — Waterfalls, Wildlife & the Pacific Coast
Guanacaste is Costa Rica’s largest and driest province, stretching along the Pacific coast from the Nicaraguan border down through some of the country’s most stunning landscapes. It’s home to world-class surf beaches, Rincón de la Vieja and Tenorio Volcano National Parks, and a string of waterfalls (cataratas) that alone could justify the trip. We based ourselves near Tamarindo on the coast, which makes a great jumping-off point for both beach days and inland adventures.
Where to Stay
Jardín del Eden is a lovely boutique hotel in Tamarindo. It’s the only hotel in Tamarindo that includes both gourmet breakfast and dinner in the room rate (we still think about how amazing the breakfast was there!) A short private path leads to their oceanfront garden with direct beach access, lounge chairs, a plunge pool, and a beachfront bar.
Playa Tamarindo
Tamarindo is one of Costa Rica’s most well-known surf destinations, and it lives up to the hype with consistent waves, surf schools up and down the beach for beginners, and a laid-back town with lots going on. We rented surfboards from Iguana Surf. This was our second time “surfing” (the first being in Hanalei Bay, Kauai, Hawaii)… and now I’m even more convinced that we would benefit from a lesson (or ten).
Las Catalinas
The charming, car-free beach town of Las Catalinas is known for its cobblestoned streets, colorful architecture, beautiful beaches, great restaurants (we highly recommend Sentido Norte), and numerous opportunities for outdoor adventures! The majority of the town is surrounded by natural forest reserve, and wildlife sightings are common — giant iguanas, howler monkeys, and anteaters are regularly spotted on the trails, and apparently the occasional puma has been known to make an appearance too!
Las Catalinas boasts over 26 miles of well-maintained hiking and mountain biking trails with gorgeous views of the coastline, all free to access with just a small fee to park. Bike rentals are also available right in town, making it easy to get out and explore.
Llanos del Cortés Waterfall
Located in the Guanacaste lowlands, Llanos del Cortés is a stunning waterfall that is incredibly easy to visit. After paying the entrance fee (~$8 per person), it’s just a 5-minute walk down a set of stairs to a wide, cascade dropping into a gorgeous shallow pool. Unlike most waterfalls in Costa Rica, swimming is not only allowed but encouraged… just don’t be like us and forget your bathing suit (though it didn’t stop us from taking a swim)!
La Leona Waterfall
La Leona is a hidden waterfall tucked inside a narrow volcanic canyon near Rincón de la Vieja National Park. It is fed by the bright turquoise waters of the Río Blanco and can only be reached on a guided hike that includes scrambling over rocks and swimming through the river canyon itself, so come prepared to get wet! This was such a fun adventure.
La Cangreja Waterfall
La Cangreja, one of our favorite waterfalls In Costa Rica, is a gorgeous, peaceful cascade inside Rincón de la Vieja National Park in Las Pailas Sector. Swimming is not allowed, but it’s the perfect place for a picnic!
The 6-mile out-and-back hike to get there was our favorite part! When you walk through the forested sections of the trail, stay quiet and you might just spot white-faced capuchin monkeys in the branches above you! We hung out and watched them for a long time. Our favorite two monkeys of the ten or so that we saw were a curious baby making faces at us, and an older monkey without a left arm swinging impressively through the branches!
A few key things to know before you go: reservations for this area of Rincón de la Vieja National Park are required and must be made on the SINAC website. Book at least a few days in advance. The park is closed Mondays, with entrance Tuesday–Sunday 8am–3pm (exit by 5pm), but if you’re hiking to the waterfall you must start by noon. Entry is $15 per person for non-residents, plus a $1.50 per person cash toll to cross private land on the way in. Some sections of the trail are buggy and exposed, and there’s a short fixed-rope section to assist with the final descent.
Rio Celeste Waterfall
There’s a legend in Costa Rica that after painting the sky, God dipped his brushes in the Rio Celeste in Tenorio Volcano National Park. It’s easy to believe it: the water sometimes is an electric, otherworldly blue caused by a phenomenon called Mie Scattering: two colorless rivers meet at a spot called the Teñidero, and a drop in pH causes mineral particles to enlarge and scatter sunlight into that brilliant turquoise color appreciated best at the waterfall. If you can, choose to visit on a sunny day. Rain and overcast skies can significantly diminish the turquoise color, as we experienced. Though it wasn’t nearly as vibrant as the photos we’d seen, it was still beautiful.
The full Mysteries of Tenorio trail (3 miles out-and-back, ~650′ elevation change, including ~200 stairs down to the waterfall) has more to offer beyond the waterfall. The Blue Lagoon, the Borbollones hot springs, and the Teñidero dyeing point are all worth seeing if you have the time.
The highlight of this trail for us was actually watching a collared anteater climbing in the trees along the trail (we definitely didn’t know they climbed trees until that day).
We also saw an eyelash viper resting in a tree (they’re not aggressive but are venomous, so don’t get too close!)
Key logistics: timed-entry reservations are required via the SINAC website. The park is open 8am–4pm and you must enter before 2pm. Entry is $12 per person plus $4-6 for parking (bring cash, ideally exact change, colones (2k-3k) preferred). There are no public buses or shuttles to the park entrance. Having a car is ideal, and it’s a common day trip from La Fortuna (about 1.5 hours away). Be prepared for mud. Bring rain gear. No swimming allowed.
Arenal & La Fortuna – The Adventure Capital of Costa Rica
La Fortuna is the adventure capital of Costa Rica, sitting in the shadow of the iconic Arenal Volcano in the Alajuela province. It’s got a bit of everything with great accommodations, hot springs, and endless adventure activities.
Where to Stay
We tend to lean more budget than bougie for the majority of our travels, but we splurged a little on Hotel Arenal Kioro Suites & Spa and it was worth every penny! Every single room on the property has a Juliet balcony with views of Arenal Volcano AND a private jetted hot tub. The hotel also has seven onsite thermal springs, an outdoor pool with the beautiful Arenal Volcano as its backdrop, all-day dining at multiple restaurants and bars, and a full spa. The volcano didn’t fully reveal itself during our stay, but the views from our room were still so magical that we didn’t even care.
Canyoning
If rappelling down waterfalls in a rainforest canyon sounds like your idea of a good time, a canyoning tour with professional guides near La Fortuna is not to be missed! We went with a group called Pure Trek and had a great experience. Between rappels you’ll hike through scenic rainforest trails in the canyon. Transportation, all gear, and a delicious Costa Rican lunch is included! Other adventure activities in La Fortuna include ziplining, white water rafting, and ATVing.
Guided Sloth Walk
Costa Rica is one of the best places in the world to see sloths in the wild, but spotting a sloth is easier said than done for the untrained eye. If you’re not having any luck on your own, hiring an experienced guide is one way to improve your chances! We worked with a trained guide who knew exactly where to look and could spot a sloth in a tree canopy that we’d have walked right past without a second glance. She also pointed out some incredible birds!
One thing we feel strongly about: choose an ethical operator. Costa Rica takes wildlife protection seriously, with laws in place that make it illegal to touch, feed, or hold wild animals. A reputable guided sloth walk should not guarantee sightings and should involve no touching, holding, feeding, chasing, or any other physical interaction with the animals. The whole point is observing them living naturally in their own habitat. If a tour is offering photo ops handling the animals, that’s a red flag. Do research before you book and look for operators with clear ethical wildlife policies.
Hot Springs
The Arenal region sits on a network of geothermal hot springs, ranging from full resort experiences to more low-key setups. Pick your budget and your vibe. All of them feel incredible after a full day of activity. If you’re staying at Arenal Kioro, you’ve already got seven thermal springs steps from your room as well as access to Titokú Hot Springs down the road. Other well-known springs in the area are Tabacón (also a resort and spa) and Ecotermales.
Bonus: A San José Detour
Since we’re recommending flying in and out of LIR for this particular itinerary, most of you can skip straight to the good stuff, but if you do find yourself flying through SJO, it’s worth making a detour on your way in or out…
Route 126 north of San José takes you past one of Costa Rica’s most underrated photo opportunities: a stunning roadside view of La Paz waterfall that you can take in completely free!
If you have more time, you can visit La Paz Waterfall Gardens, a private nature park just off the same route, built around five separate waterfalls plus a butterfly garden, hummingbird garden, wildlife rescue center, and serpentarium. It’s certainly a tourist attraction, but we’ve heard it’s beautiful.
Travel tip: If you have an early flight out of SJO, and need a night near San José without actually staying in it, Buena Vista Chic Hotel is a charming boutique hotel with incredible panoramic views and a great option just 30 minutes from SJO.
Book your trip already!
Costa Rica blew us away. The nature, waterfalls, wildlife, adventure, and people are all incredible. And we barely scratched the surface on our first trip there! We’ll certainly be back to explore places we haven’t yet explored like The Monteverde Cloud Forest, Osa Peninsula, Manuel Antonio, and the Caribbean Coast. In the meantime, we hope this convinces you to plan your first trip (or your trip back)!
